Zack Wentz

What to expect on a day with zack

I’m driven to provide the highest level of mountain educational opportunities to my guests so that they can feel more empowered to pursue the activity on their own or simply understand their environment a little bit better while being guided. Almost every trip I plan has an educational focus, and my mission is for you to leave a trip either more connected to the place where that trip is hosted and/or to feel confident approaching it on your own with a higher degree of safety.

I have extensive formal training and experiential knowledge in the mountains, and am driven to provide my guests with the highest quality experience. Detailed below will showcase the experience that I have in the mountains in each discipline, coupled with showcasing which disciplines are my focus and what you can expect on a day out with me.

Rock Guiding

Currently I am an AMGA-certified Rock Guide and AMGA-certified Single Pitch Instructor. Due to experience climbing or guiding in western North Carolina; Boulder, CO; Squamish, BC; Smith Rock, OR; Red Rocks, NV; and the eastern Sierra, CA (Tuolumne, Yosemite Valley, Bishop, and High Sierra regions), I have an array of skills to apply to a variety of rock situations. Currently I am available for private instruction and coaching; contact me for details.

Work Experience:

• Current Instructor, Guide & Curriculum Developer - Edgeworks Climbing + Guiding. Teach the full range of skills both in an indoor and outdoor setting in all disciplines of mountain travel (rock climbing, alpine climbing & ski mountaineering), as well as oversee curriculum development and updating.

• Current Instructor, Guide & Curriculum Developer - Mountain Bureau LLC. Teach the full range of skills both in an indoor and outdoor setting in all disciplines of mountain travel (rock climbing, alpine climbing & ski mountaineering), as well as oversee curriculum development and updating.

• Current Instructor & Guide - Mountain Madness. Organize and lead trips in the North Cascades involving alpine rock climbing.

• Former Lead Instructor & Guide - Alpine Ascents International. Organize and lead trips in the North Cascades and internationally involving alpine rock climbing.

• Instructor & Guide - American Alpine Institute. Organized and led trips ranging from 3-14 days in length instructing alpine rock climbing techniques.

• Assistant Guide - Sierra Mountain Center. Assisted with guiding alpine rock routes in the High Sierra, CA.

• Youth Climbing Coach - Climb n' Conquer Project. Provided bouldering movement skills improvements to at-risk youth climbers in 1:1 private sessions.

• Climbing Director - Eagle's Nest Camp. Developed/taught rock climbing curriculum to youth ages 6-18 years old ranging from introductory climbing skills to multi-pitch climbing experiences and traditional gear placement.

Certifications:

• AMGA-certified Rock Guide

• AMGA Single Pitch Instructor

• WMI Wilderness First Responder

Notable Ascents:

• Stawamus Chief, (34x) via numerous routes [Borderline/Angel’s Crest (IV 5.10d, 16 pitches), speed ascent of Rambles/Banana Peel/Boomstick Crack/Butt Light in 1hr, 59 mins, Sunset Strip (IV 5.10d, 12 pitches), The Grand Wall (III 5.11a A0, 9 pitches), 7 times in 7 days via a variety of routes, culminating in a total of 134 pitches, 90% of those on lead, and finishing the final day with 43 pitches in a day]

• Time Wave Zero (IV 5.11a A0, 23 pitches), El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Feb. 2019

• Yankee Clipper (III 5.10b, 15 pitches), El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Feb. 2019.

• Sisyphus Summits (III 5.10d, 22 pitches), Canmore, AB Canada. Aug. 2016.

Splitboard Guiding

I am the 11th AMGA certified Splitboard Guide in the United States. I have nearly 12 years of riding in the backcountry of the Coast Mountains of Canada, Cascade Range of Washington state, Interior Ranges of British Columbia (Selkirks, Purcells), the Colorado Rocky Mountains, & Alaska. I have also traveled extensively for ski mountaineering trips, having skied and climbed in New Zealand, France, Austria, and Mexico. I’ve worked in all types of winter backcountry operations, including avalanche education, forecasting, touring-base guiding, and mechanized (heliski & snowcat) ski guiding. In addition, my research pertaining to snow avalanches assists in understanding snowpack structure and avalanche dynamics. Hence due to my vast experience across many regions, as well as my research interests, you can be assured you'll have a safe and enjoyable experience in the winter backcountry environment! I’m available for private avalanche instruction, splitboard guiding, and consultation on avalanche-related projects; please contact me for any trip inquiries! Splitboard mountaineering, and aiming to find the best possible snow on the biggest line is my focus, and I aim to bring that experience to you.

Work Experience:

• Lead Guide, Guide Trainer & Avalanche Forecaster - Alaska Heliskiing. Developed curriculum for the annual Guide School, a 14-day program to prepare advanced recreationalists to become heliski guides & was the lead instructor for this program. Managed & led AM/PM avalanche hazard meetings for the operation, as well as was responsible for snow safety. Led small groups out of A-Star helicopters in backcountry ski mountaineering terrain outside of Haines, AK. Also worked with & guided film & media crews.

• Program Founder, Curriculum Developer and Lead Splitboard Guide - Mountain Bureau LLC. Developed a splitboard-specific instructional curriculum for backcountry snowboarders in the Seattle area, ranging from introductory splitboarding up to expedition splitboard mountaineering, and everything in between, as well as am the only splitboard guide on staff. Leads splitboard-focused guiding to the public all around WA, Canada, and worldwide.

• Current AIARE Instructor and Lead Splitboard Guide - Kaf Adventures. Guides and leads BC ski and snowboarding courses, intermediate splitboarding and skiing programs, and teaches AIARE 1 and AIARE rescue courses throughout Washington state and northern Oregon.

• Current AIARE Instructor and Lead Splitboard Guide - Mountain Madness. Founded the splitboarding and splitboard-mountaineering program at Mountain Madness, guide ski and splitboard programs, and teach AIARE avalanche courses.

Certifications:

• 11th American AMGA certified Splitboard Guide

• Canadian Avalanche Association Operation Level 2

• AIARE Course Leader

Notable Experience:

• Instructor for Alaska Heliskiing annual Guide School, and heliski guide trainer. Avalanche forecaster for Alaska Heliskiing, & Lead Guide.

• Pioneered new splitboarding variations to classic lines in Snoqualmie Pass, WA

• Splitboard writer for WildSnow.com

• Splitboard descent of Denali (from 16,000ft). June 2022.

• East Face Catamount Peak, Rogers Pass, BC. Feb. 2020.

• East Face of Aoraki/Mt. Cook (12,218’), (from summit ridge), Nov. 2019.

• Aemmer Couloir, Mt. Temple, Canadian Rockies, April 2019.

• White Salmon Glacier/The Hourglass/Summit Pyramid, Mt. Shuksan, splitboard descent from summit w/ 2 rappels through the Hourglass, March 2019.

• Cosmique Couloir, Auguille di Midi, Chamonix-Mount Blanc, 2 rappels into couloir, April 2018.

• Remote hut/winter camping trips lasting up to 8 days

• Instruction of winter survival/snowcave design trips

Alpine/MOUNTAINEERING Guiding

As an AMGA Apprentice Alpine Guide, I have experience running trips focused towards glacier travel and crevasse rescue, as well as general mountaineering skills. I have many seasons of experience leading trips in highly glaciated terrain, including trips to Mount Baker and Mount Rainier in WA. In addition, I have experience in alpine rock terrain ranging from the Bugaboos, to the Colorado Rockies alpine, to the Sierra Nevada alpine. I’m available for private trips or instructional courses pertaining to glacier-travel, crevasse rescue, alpine rock climbing or would be happy to customize the curriculum to your specific needs; contact me for additional details!

Work Experience:

• Current Instructor, Guide & Curriculum Developer - Edgeworks Climbing + Guiding. Teach the full range of skills both in an indoor and outdoor setting in all disciplines of mountain travel (rock climbing, alpine climbing & ski mountaineering), as well as oversee curriculum development and updating.

• Current Instructor, Guide & Curriculum Developer - Mountain Bureau LLC. Teach the full range of skills both in an indoor and outdoor setting in all disciplines of mountain travel (rock climbing, alpine climbing & ski mountaineering), as well as oversee curriculum development and updating.

• Current Instructor & Guide - Mountain Madness. Organize and lead trips in the North Cascades involving alpine rock climbing.

• Former Lead Instructor & Guide - Alpine Ascents International. Lead trips on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades involving alpine rock climbing and mountaineering, as well as assist on leading trips on Mount Rainier.

• Former Instructor & Guide - American Alpine Institute. Organized and led trips ranging from 3-14 days in length instructing alpine rock, ice, snow and glacier-travel climbing techniques.

• Former Assistant Guide - Sierra Mountain Center. Assisted with guiding alpine rock routes in the High Sierra, CA.

Certifications:

• AMGA Apprentice Alpine Guide

• WMI Wilderness First Responder (80-hr first aid training)

Notable Experience:

• Nearly 30+ successful ascents of Mt. Baker, WA via various routes

• 4 total ascents of Mt. Rainier, WA via various routes.

• Guided the linkup of West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle—>N. Face of Burgundy Spire, IV 5.9, 16 pitches @ the 2:1 ratio. Sept. 2020.

• Serpentine Arete (IV 5.8, 15 pitches), Dragontail Peak, WA in a day car-car, September 2019.

• Torment-Forbidden Traverse, North Cascades, WA, June 2019.

• Lotus Flower Tower in NW Territories (V 5.11 20 pitches), Aug. 2017.

• Beckey-Chouinard Route (IV 5.10, 15 pitches), Bugaboos, BC Canada, July 2017.

Backpacking guiding and expedition planning

I have experience leading many backpacking trips along the Sierra Crest, the Moab area, and around Colorado. In addition, I've worked in expedition and food planning for trips lasting up to 23 days, as well as high altitude expeditions around the world.

Notable Experience:

• Guided Denali Expedition - Achieved 16,500’ elevation while guiding on Denali. June 20-July 5th, 2021.

• Guided and planned 2 consecutive 23-day John Muir Trail trips (23 days, 220 miles, 50,000 feet of elevation gain and descent)